The Karma Sutra of sleeping on a bus

19^th and 20^th December

Made our way further up the Uruguayan coast to Points Del Diablo, only about a 2 hour ride from the playground of the rich and famous (Del Este) but worlds apart. Think left over hippie fishing town, only sandy beach roads, small cabin type housing, no ATM, and kms and kms of unspoilt beach. Evidence of (unfortunately dead) but nevertheless a turtle on the beach with vultures eating it and another dolphin relative with a long thin toothy bill. Bren, thought of you as we galloped along on Rosenor and Emilo our beautiful and very obliging horses for the morning. What a treat, and half way during the ride, we stopped to let the horses explore in the forest and Fabio whipped out a bottle of red wine and a bag of biscuits which we duly made our way through passing it between us (no glasses) at about 9:30 in the morning!

The hostel we stayed in was probably our best so far, built by a young couple a year ago for that reason so it’s very functional. Massive open kitchen and sitting area. It was full and quite a walk into town (say 25mins) so most people cooked for themselves in the evenings – quite an interesting affair to have 10 people cooking in the kitchen, all different meals and all different nationalities.

We set off the next day on a mammoth walk along the beach into the reserve which is really an old Fort on the hill and a massive camp ground – we would guess about 1000 sites in the pine and blue gum forest that was pretty much empty but we were told by Fabio that from New Year the season picks up and the little village of Diablo goes from a mere 700 people to 30 000 and the camp grounds are packed! Once we had done the 12km I think was all it was but it felt much further, the idea of walking all the way back was just a bit much and we couldn’t seem to work out how to catch a bus back and not too many people around to ask, so we eventually spoke to some military guys who flagged their fishermen buddies down and we climbed into the rust bucket and got driven back. We paid a ridiculous price but it was worth it and they couldn’t believe their luck as their drinking money just suddenly appeared!

So far Uruguay has been our favourite country and took us by surprise as we hadn’t heard much about it along the way. But we need to move on, Brazil and Ile Grande is calling for Christmas.

The Karma Sutra of sleeping on a bus – 283 positions that leave you with a stiff neck!

5 buses later, and 53 hours exactly and we arrive in Paraty, an entire day late and still married!!

Wowee, how we underestimated that one. The one serious drawback not being able to speak the lingo is that making future travel plans is near impossible so we hop on a bus and only when we get to the next stop can we devise our next move. We gauged that we’d hit Paraty by the 22^nd but could not gauge exactly how much waiting time was required between bus legs. So, an 8 hr wait and then another 5 here and there becomes an interesting test of patience! And we thought a bus ride to Cape Town was long, try 20 hours with a toilet that absolutely honks and a seat that is impossible to get comfy in. But if you manage to get 2 seats, the best way to lie is facing the seats, head on the aisle side and feet at the window, trust me, I have tried all of them! If on the other hand you are my poor husband, you sit up right with the person in front consistently trying to put their seat back and getting a knee in the their back, with head lolling about when he sleeps. But we managed and arrived to an incredibly kind host and exquisite villa we had all to ourselves as he was closing the next day for Christmas – who gave us a beautiful breakfast for free and didn’t charge us for both nights. So worth remembering – Pousada Acquarela, belonging to Emerson.

Paraty is gorgeous!!! Cobbled streets, white houses with coloured window frames and shutters. Art shops, seafood, mini islands off the mainland and rows of brightly painted wooden boats offering rides. Pity we missed our other night there for a smelly bus!

24^th December

Another bus, but a quick one! And a ferry ride takes us over to Ile Grande where we get 4 nights! Paradise found! It’s everything we were hoping for. Palms, boats, white sand, warm water and great food! We have also been lucky with a beautiful Pousada to stay in that has a pool and a perfect view of the bay.  

25^th December

Ho! Ho! Ho! – Merry Christmas everybody!!!

What a beautiful day. Packed our towels and off we went on an island exploration hopping from one mini beach to the next. The one crossing required a bit of swimming so we wrapped the towels around my neck as I had inherited a tube from some party animals the night before. Andrew got the giggles and took some photos of me – said this one was for you Gav – “tits bobbing!” and the slip slops pic is especially for Rob and Em – check ‘em out! Have sent you the odd message but I don’t think sms’s are going through. Hope your wedding was spectacular. We heard it was awesome and can’t wait for the pics and detail!

We met a really lovely Dutch couple that we spent Christmas dinner with, they are just here for the weekend living in Sao Paulo. The restaurant (that Lize had booked way in advance) is tucked away in the middle of the forest a short(ish) walk along the beach all secluded. Fantastic evening, we decided we would be each other’s family for Christmas.

26^th December

Again, another “hellish” day in paradise. Set off this morning in a speedboat for a day trip around the island stopping off at beaches along the way to snorkel, swim, laze around and explore. The island is about 32km in length so it was a full day’s excursion finishing off with lunch at a beach restaurant. If this place wasn’t as expensive as it is, I think we’d be hanging around a lot longer!!